The Prusa i3 Mk3 has had a heatbed failure. The problem’s diagnosed and we’re re-wiring the bed to get it heating properly again.
Recently the heated bed failed on my Prusa i3 Mk3 (from Prusa 3D). But on the up-side it wasn’t the bed itself, but the cables. So I seized the opportunity to make a video of the troubleshooting process. There’ll also be a follow up video on what replaced the original cable.
If you haven’t seen it yet Prusa’s i3 Mk3 MMU 2.0 printer module offers up multi-material printing using five pre-loaded filaments with a single extruder. The magic happens with a fairly ingenious filament selector module hanging out above the printer proper. And it works. The selector is adequate at selecting filaments and I’m not seeing…
My Prusa i3 Mk3 printer’s LM8UU bearings were acting up. It could’ve been an issue with the installation. Or they might’ve just been junk out of the box. Regardless, it’s time to replace them.
With three Igus Drylin bushings in-hand I’ve decided to swap those in on the printer, at least temporarily.
We’re once again taking a dive into the bargain bin at PCBurn, this time for PETG filament from Amazon. At 12.83, shipped, it’s certainly one of the cheapest filaments I could find. Normally I’m leery (despite what the cheapest PLA on EBay videos I’ve made might have you believe) about running cheap filaments through my…
Building your own box fan filter is a great way to reduce the amount of dust in your workspace. I’m going a step further and adding in a variable speed motor control!
3 months ago I set out to buy the cheapest PLA filament on EBay and see if it was total garbage. And I’ve now printed off about two thirds of the spool. What’s do the prints look like after printing out a pound and a half of plastic?
Counting the IGUS Drylin bushing test as a success I’m moving back to bearings. For now. Here’s why.